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Why Slovenia—And Its Dining Scene—Should Be on Your European Bucket List

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By the time we reached the powder-blue guesthouse of Hiša Polonka, a twisting, two-hour drive from Slovenia’s capital Ljubljana, the tiny town of Kobarid was already shut for the evening. My travel companion Bianca and I weren’t bothered by Polonka’s kitchen being closed. The owners of the guesthouse had already prepared a plate of owner Valter’s aged, raw cow’s milk cheese and thinly sliced roast beef for us—the perfect pairing with the bottle of Burja Pinot Noir we picked up from the natural winery on the drive over. 

Shielded by saw-toothed mountain peaks, Kobarid sits in the Soča Valley on the northwestern edge of the country, near the Italian border. The hand-drawn map we were handed when we checked in sums up the town’s size: Off the central square, there’s a cafe, hotel, and church that still sports the bell tower Hemingway mentions in his 1929 classic A Farewell to Arms

The Italian military memorial in Kobarid. Photo: Getty Images

Like most of the travelers passing through what can be considered something of an expedition town, this was our starting point for a two-week trip through Slovenia. But unlike your typical expedition town, Kobarid is known just as much for the nearby rafting and canyoning as its internationally famous resident, Hiša Franko, Ana Roš’s micro-local restaurant that has held two Michelin stars since the guide came to Slovenia in 2020. “More and more people are talking about Slovenian gastronomy,” says Ana, who was named the world’s best female chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017, as we sampled kombucha made in-house by Hiša Franko’s fermentation team. “Even in New York and Scandinavia, they know my work, but now, they’re starting to become more interested in the country, the products, and the wines.”

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